After six days in Gobi desert and one whole day of driving, we finally reached the Princess camp high up in the Gorkhi Terelj National Park in Mongolia. From dry flat planes to rugged mountains, from browns and grays to gurgling rivulets and lush greens, from 40 degrees to -5 degrees, all in a period of 12 hours!
The Princess camp was yet another Ger camp, no different from that in Gobi, except that it was freezing cold. There was a large coal heater with the chimney going out from the center of the Ger. Our hosts entered the Ger every few hours to reload the coal to keep us warm, while we tried to sleep. Their intrusion, initially shocking, was very soon welcomed!
The next day, our guide told us we would be going for a picnic to an old ruin some 10 km away. There were horses for those who wanted to ride, much to the delight of Atreya and Shalini, and an ox-cart for those who couldn't- mom and me. By now it was snowing lightly. We wore sweaters and jackets offered to us by our very maternal hosts, all men by the way, but the cold was bone-chilling. They then trussed mom and me in a blanket each, with a rope tied around us to hold it in place.
We were then picked up and placed on the ox-cart, the keyword being "on". Our seat was a flat plank of wood that was somehow attached to the yoke around the neck of the large black and white ox. There were no side railing or any back rest. Like everything that was thrown our way in this unusual fascinating country, we took it in our stride.
A few hundred yards into the rough drive, with no arms free to prop ourselves up, we found ourselves less and less vertical and more and more horizontal on the wooden platform. With snow now drifting onto our faces and mouths, mom and I looked at each other helplessly. No promised beautiful scenery to be seen. All we could see was gray skies and each other's pitiable faces.
Suddenly, there was a jerk and a shout. The wooden platform stood at an odd angle. I managed to get my arms out of the blanket, propped myself up and turned around to see what the commotion was about. Our ox-cart was sans the ox! There was just the wooden plank somehow balanced on the slushy muddy path, with mom and me somehow still on it!
I could see our ox-cart driver running and shouting after the ox who had decided enough was enough. All this while we thought we were uncomfortable, but who knew that the ox was the real victim here, carrying us two through the snow and slush!
It was a funny site seeing the ox running away, but not more than the site we presented to our horse riding friend and family, who could be heard laughing loudly and calling out to the driver.
Noticing how precariously we were perched, the driver discontinued the ox chase and returned to help us. With no English-speaking guide nearby to translate for us, it was somehow agreed that he would carry mom on his back across the slushy path where the ox had abandoned us. While he did that, I shook off the blanket, hopped off the cart and made my way gingerly to dry land. No way I would let that man take on the burden of carrying me across, however sturdy he may be! Certainly, he couldn't be sturdier than the ox!
After making sure we were safe, he once again ran to get the ox back, who was now happily chewing on some dry grass. After much pulling and cajoling, he was brought back to the cart and yoked again. We hopped back on top of the plank, this time with the blankets only loosely wrapped around us.
I don't remember much of the ruins or the picnic, or the trip back, but this episode from 20 years ago of the ox shaking us off is as fresh in my mind as if it happened just yesterday.